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Deck Pedestal Installation Data

The deck pedestal for the Hoyt Jib Boom TM is installed using stainless steel 5/16-18 FHMS of a suitable length for your deck. A wedge plate made of teak, aluminum or hard plastic my be required to shim the base on some decks. This is a variable that must be addressed for your specific deck angle and installation.

A backing plate, which is at least the same diameter as the pedestal, should be used on the underside of the deck. This backing plate serves to spread the fastener load, and establish a flat hard surface for the washers and nuts. The backing plate can be made of teak, aluminum, stainless steel or a hard plastic such as ABS or Nylon.

The backing plate must be of sufficient thickness so as not to deform from the fastener loads. Structural bedding may be used as necessary under the wedge plates and backing plate to fill voids from deck contours. Use the bolt circle of the pedestal, which has been supplied, to drill through the deck and backing plate. Use the Loc-Tite ® or nylok nuts on all of the stainless steel machine screws. Be sure to bed thoroughly.

Use the drilling guide/template supplied to drill the holes for the boom to knuckle joint. Be sure to align the indexed edge of the template to the joint (tube to tube interface on the sleeve of the knuckle) and tape in place. Drill one hole and install a fastener (rivets supplied or machine screws if you choose) before drilling the remaining holes.

Be sure to check for clearance of deck hatches, vents, stanchions and forward lower shrouds. The boom must be allowed freedom of movement through 180 o.

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Rigging Your Hoyt Jib Boom®

Note: Forespar ® does not supply blocks and tackle.

The clew plug casting provided has an attachment point (narrow end facing down) for a double block. This block should have a swivel style head. You will need a single block and a single block with a becket for attachment to your deck or rail port and starboard in-line with the clew plugs arc of movement. Be sure there are no obstructions as this will be your jib boom sheet. Wide assortments of blocks are available with deck mounts or with shackle heads for attachment to toe-rails. You will need to decide what style is best suited for your boat.

Decide which side of your boat you want the jib boom sheet to lead aft and mount the single block with becket on that side. The single block without the becket mounts on the opposite side. Run the line from the becket block through one of the sheaves on the double block on the clew plug and back through the single block without the becket, then back through the double block and to the single block with the becket and then aft. On some boats, you may need additional lead blocks for the sheet to lead aft depending on your particular deck layout.

The double sheaves in the clew plug are for the line coming off the clew of your jib. This single line should be lead through the clew plug and then forward to a single block attached to the base of the pedestal. There is an attachment point on the backside of the deck pedestal for this block. This single block then leads the jib sheet line to port or starboard (your choice) and then aft. This is your control line (when used with a furling sail) to pull out the jib. This line must be lead aft as you will be using it to tension the foot (outhaul) of the jib in conjunction with your furling line coming off your furling drum.

If you are not using a furling sail, the line coming off the clew of the jib needs to terminate at a point were you can easily adjust the foot tension (outhaul) of the jib. Leading this aft is still a good idea.

In use, you may need to rig a preventer line to hold the jib boom out and forward in light air and sloppy seas. This line should be tied to the outermost (close to-but not on-the clew plug) part of the boom and lead aft for easy/quick release and adjustment. This preventer line may not be needed at all times but when in light air and lumpy seas, the jib may “slat” much the same as your main sail's boom.

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